tales of my post-grad travels and adventures

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Slovenia and Hungary

In Ljubljana, I got to know a few of my 'cell' mates and we planned an excursion to the Scojan Caves early the next morning. John, Johnny and I set out, almost missing the train and then realizing we were on a train to Venice. The ticket seller had told us to get on this train without letting us know to change at the first stop. When the first stop came along we were all at the door, ready to go, but it wouldn't open! We thought for sure that we were going to end up in Italy but luckily there was another stop with a train to connect us to our destination. Once we got to town we still had a three mile hike to the cave which was absolutely spectacular. We wandered through giant rooms with stalactites and mites a couple million years old. Then, when we thought it couldn't get more amazing, the last room opened up into a space almost as big as a football stadium. There was rushing water below that we could hardly see because we were so far above it.
The following day, Ryan (another 'cell mate) and I headed North to a town called Bled. Bled is a picturesque mountain town on a lake with a castle on a cliff and an island with a Church in the middle. It was like something from a fairytale; everything except the downpour of rain. Since our first day in town was a bust (all activities were cancelled) we spent the second day hiking mountains. We went to the Julian Alps on what appeared to be a cloudy day but as we took the gondola up the mountain, the clouds remained in the valley and we were left with beautiful weather. We hiked up through the snow to one of the tallest peaks in the area which provided amazing views of the range. We proceeded back down the mountain, walked around the lake below and then went our separate ways. I hiked an hour and a half more up to a mountain hut where I stayed the night. I heard yodeling on the way up and didn't encounter anyone who spoke a word of English; it was exciting to be so removed.
The following day I summited the peak and descended into a valley with dozens of small shepard's huts. It was a long day of hiking and I got back just in time for dinner. Rafting and canyoning had been on my to do list but unfortunately due to all the rain, the canyons were full of water (but luckily the rafting was better than normal). The morning rafting trip was great (although a little tame compared to Maine rivers); it was nice to be on the water surrounded by mountains.
The next morning I caught the early train to Budapest which took all day (I didn't get into my hostel until 6). My roommate and I headed out to dinner and then on a night river cruise on the Danube. The boat ride was great; Budapest is beautiful by night. They have perfected their city lighting so all the landmark buildings and bridges are showcased while the ugly and grafittied are in shadows.
The following day I woke up early to get a parliament tour only to discover that they were not running due to some ceremony. I took a bus tour of town and got off to see the baths, the palace and the history museum. The museum was nearly empty and its bottom was an old castle which was great to explore; pretty quiet and creepy in the dungeon alone. From the tour I headed to the train station to take the overnight to Krakow which I am heading out to explore.

Monday, July 02, 2007

Bosnia-Hercegovina to Ljubjana

The town of Split was a bit of a disappointment after the beauty of the Dalmatian coast. The ruins of Dionicians castle were huge and most of the town was built inside. I decided that one day was definitely enough but the next bus up to Slovenia did not leave until the following evening. Instead of spending more time in Split I headed to Bosnia.
The first town that I reached after the small, sketchy border crossing was Mostar. Mostar is the home of the iconic century old bridge that was bombed during the conflict. I went to visit the new replica and the museum documenting the bridge through time including its slow destruction. Besides the bridge and the small shops and restaurants beside it, there was not much to do in Mostar. There was a small little local place along the way where I ordered blindly from the menu and had a meal of small sausages, onions, and spongy bread (called Ćevapčići) (I ordered something that sounded completely different that night and got the same meal but with bigger sausages, I think it must be a favorite). I wandered around looking at the churches and Mosques and bullet-hole ridden front line that has yet to be prepared. Many buildings are still unsafe and have signs warning of landmines inside. I made my way back to the bus station (the top half which was bombed out and has yet to be repaired) and took the next bus to Sarajevo. The countryside was beautiful with crystal clear streams and large mountains on all sides; not what I was expecting at all. I arrived in Sarajevo which is huge in comparison to Mostar and nestled in a valley. I only had four hours to explore before my train which was far too little but otherwise I would have had to stay for four days. I took a tram downtown and found myself in the midst of a posh downtown street with outdoor cafes and designer stores. The main street was flanked by religious and historic buildings, many of which were under construction. As I wandered down the main street the stylish cement stores quickly changed to small, house-like buildings of dark wood with red roofs which held a plethora of tourist trinkets and cloths. It was a really happening place and I would love to go back with more time to explore and investigate the nightlife.
From Sarajevo, I took the night train to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, where I had a quick half an hour to wander the main city square which is a host to stately embassies and beautiful gardens. I left for Slovenia (my 3rd country in 24 hours) on the morning train had the day to explore Ljubljana. While it is a city that does not grab me, it has a beautiful castle on a hill and a fun marketplace in town. I am also staying at a prison which was converted by art students into a funky hostel; it still has bars on the windows!