tales of my post-grad travels and adventures

Saturday, June 30, 2007

Croatia

I spent a wonderful night in Dubrovnik with a fresh seafood dinner on the water and then a Midieval festival with some newfound friends. The festival was fantastic with all of the performers dressed up. We saw an amazing fire poi performance followed by traditional dancing a sword fight and archery.
The next day, Ashley and I hopped a ferry to the island of Korcula which is very quaint; it has walls similar to Dubrovnik but much smaller with a wonderful sea breeze to cut the heat. We met another girl at the hostel and all went out to lunch at a wonderful pizzeria on the sea (pizza seems to be the most popular food in Croatia, very Italian influenced). The afternoon was spent exploring town and reading a book on the rocks next to the crystal clear, picturesque water (there is no sand in Croatia, all rocky coastline). That night we attended the weekly traditional folk sword-dance. It was in a very small outdoor theatre under the stars and the costumed performers acted out a play which mostly consisted of choreographed fight scenes between the two armies (which consisted of local men and teenagers, some who were very enthusiastic and others who took their acting roles less seriously; they were quite funny).
We made it an early night and caught the 6am ferry the next morning to Hvar; the largest island along the Dalmatian coastline. Hvar is very different from the other two towns with a large market square instead of walls surrounding the city in addition to a a very large yachting scene. We took a full day boat tour around the smaller area islands. We swam, snorkeled, and sunbathed all day and stopped at a little island for a picnic lunch. We returned to the island and celebrated Ashley's birthday with dinner and gelatto in the posh seaside strip of town.
This morning I saw the sights of Hvar which included a Franciscan Monestary that houses an exhibit of coins from 200 BC with Zeus' image, other assorted items collected from shipwrecks and contemporary Croatian paintings; quite a neat museum. After the museum I took a ferry to Split where the weather decided to turn into a thunder and lightning storm; very impressive. I took refuge in the internet cafe but it appears that the weather is clearing up so I am off to explore Split.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Italy to Croatia

Wow, what a whirlwind two weeks it has been. We began with a wonderful two days in Ireland exploring castles, ruins, farmland and coastal cliffs (in addition to a few pubs, some Guinness and hurling). After our quick visit we flew into Venice where we navigated the dead end alleys and canals to arrive at our B&B. Venice is magical, it is so old and charming; we spent hours exploring the streets far away from the tourist hustle and bustle. We also saw the typical tourist attractions such as St. Marks cathedral, the beautiful palace in the square and Rialti bridge. We dined al fresco on the water and took the water bus to all of our destinations. I absolutely loved the winding streets and old world feel of Venice but we had to continue on our way to the Dolomites.

We spent our time in the Dolomites in a small town called Castlerotto (Kaselruth) depending on whether you speak German or Italian. The entire town was full of German speakers as the area we were in had been a part of Austria before WWI. It was unlike the rest of Italy with a culture of its own and houses like swiss chalets nestled into the mountains. We spent our day there hiking in one of the world's largest alpine meadows surrounded by the sharp rocky peaks. At night we sat at a terrace restaurant and dined on wiener schnitzel and strudel. The next day we headed back down south to Cinque Terre and after a few detours through the not so lovely town of La Spezia, we found our way to a beautiful B&B in the hillside overlooking the Mediterranean. We dined at the local establishment for dinner and had amazing gnocchi and pasta. The next day we were surprised by a train strike and unable to get to Cinque Terre so we ventured to the small coastal town of Porto Vierto. I waded in the Mediterranean and we ate gelatto on the sea shore. We returned to our B&B and ate an amazing home cooked meal on the balcony overlooking the mountains and sea (this woman sure could cook, yummm). The train strike ended the next day and we were able to take a half day to visit Cinque Terre before leaving for Tuscany. The five towns were beautiful with bright colors (chosen by the town's director of taste) and nestled into the seaside hills. Our stay was definitely too short but were were on our way to our Tuscan Villa. On the way, we stopped at a tiny town and had a wonderful lunch with fantastic local wine. We continued through the rolling hills to our accommodation on a hill overlooking the countryside. The next day I walked up to the walled city of Volterra on the top of a nearby hill and strolled around the old stone buildings and walls. It was quaint and quiet until you reached the main square where there was an ambulance/motorcycle convention (it was filled with the vehicles and crowds of EMTs and motorcyclists; very strange).
Back in the car, once again, we traveled south to the town of Orvieto in the Umbra region. It was very similar to Tuscany and the town was another walled city on a hill with a magnificent church. We explored the church which was built in the 1200s and featured construction of black and white marble in a stripped pattern; it was stunning. After our touring, we arrived at our B&B on a farm where the owner cooked us a 4 course meal accompanied by their own wine.
We sadly left the farm the next day and headed towards Rome. The city was stunning but it was hot! We sweated our way through tours of the Colosseum, a bus tour through town, the Basilica, St. Peter's Square and the Sistine Chapel. There are so many sights in Rome that I could definitely go back and spend more time there (although perhaps another time of year).
Rome is where Sue and I parted ways; she headed back to home via Ireland and I headed to Croatia. I spent last night outside on a Ferry with 3 other backpackers attempting to get some sleep on the lifejacket crates. We were quite a picture but we got a bit of shut-eye before arriving in Dubrovnik. Upon arrival we were accosted by a dozen residents renting out their rooms and found a great little room in the old city that two of us are sharing. The city is surrounded by a wall which appears as a large castle from the outside. It is a maze of streets and hills and so beautiful that it is hard to imagine that it was the scene of war 15 years ago. We wandered around town this morning, eating figs and pastries from the outdoor market. We also stopped at the War museum which is a multimedia display of pictures and video. There were fantastic before and after pictures which really illustrated how much the region was devastated. It is amazing how quickly Dubrovnik has rebuilt both its walls and tourist industry.
On a lighter note, I am off to have a drink at a cafe built into the wall overlooking the Adriatic. Please send me all of your news and updates, I hope that you are doing well.

Thursday, June 14, 2007

AIDS Action Committee and off to Europe!

You all may be surprised to hear... that I will be staying in one place for longer than 6 months! I was just offered a permanent position in the development department of AIDS Action Committee as the Coordinator of Corporations and Foundations. Despite the permanent position, I have no thoughts of staying in one place for too long. I am heading out tomorrow for six weeks in Europe to relax and explore before I begin my 'real' job. I would love advice from anyone who has traveled to Croatia, Slovenia, Hungary, Slovakia, Poland, Czech Republic or Germany on the sights that are not to be missed. I will be attempting to update my blog but the frequency of my stories will be dependent on the abundance of internet cafes and/or free time. I hope that you are all well and am looking forward to hearing from you soon.