Wanderlust

Nha Trang and Hoi An

2009-06-09T10:23:00.005-05:00

I took a windy bus ride to Nha Trang where rain was the name of the game. There was a half day of clouds where I fit in a boat ride and snorkel with a few other travelers. The boat ride was alright and the snorkeling was pretty mediocre (there was a trash bag on the reef and minimal visibility) but the company was good.
My second day in town was spent catching the hour of sun that appeared and avoiding the rain for the rest of the day. I took an overnight bus (yes, another crowded 5 to a bed bus - and it was raining and I was under a leak - fun) to Hoi An. As I was getting off the bus I noticed that Katia, a girl I had grabbed coffee with in Saigon, had been on the same bus. We set off to explore the town, made our way through the bustling daily market and walked along the river admiring the old, french style buildings. We found a cute little restaurant for brunch with a table looking out at the river - very picturesque. Katia and I hung out for a few days, tried some amazing regional specialty dishes, had fittings for a tailor-made suit, and enjoyed the holiday weekend in a town of lanterns and candles floating on the river. Katia had a flight back to Australia but I got stuck in Hoi An because all forms of travel were booked up for the holiday weekend. Luckily I met Laura who was staying in the same hotel and had been in Hoi An for a few months. We had a blast hanging out and were even invited to an amazing local lunch by our tailor and her sister (they were awesome and it was a great way to learn about about the 'real' Vietnam).
Laura was dating the star of the regional soccer team so we got second row seats for one of the big games. The stadium was packed but the game was a draw which was too bad but very exciting. We went out for drinks after but didn't stay long because there were rats crawling all around the restaurant - we had to keep banging chairs so they didn't run under our feet.
The next day I finally found a way out of town and took a bus from Hoi An to Hue. I explored the town, went to a market and hopped a plane to Hanoi the next day.

I'm Home!

2009-06-09T10:14:00.004-05:00

I arrived home on memorial weekend surprising my Mom and Grandma. My blog was behind so I didn't give away the surprise. I will be updating it over the next few days and will also include a link to pictures when they're up.

Easy Riding

2009-05-12T04:03:00.001-05:00

Dalat has lived up to its coolness factor in both the weather and the amazing scenery. I took the midnight bus which arrived at 6 in the morning - I was so grateful to have met two other travelers on board who led me through the winding and hilly streets to a recommended guesthouse. We dropped our things and headed to a local spot for breakfast. I tried the Bahn Mi, Vietnamese fillings on a French baguette - very popular here. Something inside (not sure what it was since I couldn't identify many of the ingredients) didn't agree with me and I hung out for the rest of the morning and watched BBC (it was thankfully the first room I've had since January with a tv, only 2 English channels but still quite a novelty).

Having recovered by afternoon I hopped on the back of one of the motorbikes the guys had rented and we went around the lake and up to a viewpoint to check out the town. The weather was a bit rainy but the temperature was amazing; I even needed a sweatshirt on the bike!
The next day I went on an incredible canyoning trip. Our small group, four Brits and me, were driven through the hills and dropped off on a random roadside. We trekked for half an hour down narrow trails, through streams and over slippery rocks (I mean really slippery, I fell a couple of times, luckily not down any cliffs but this was the scariest part of the day). We arrived at the practice cliff where we rappelled (or absailed, depending which country you hail from) down a small drop to make sure we had the technique down. Two rapels later and we were heading down a huge cliff face; so much fun! On the next descent I really got in my stride and even started doing little jumps down the wall. In between rapelling we did some more hiking, cliff jumps and got to slide down natural waterslides.

The next absail wasn't a cliff at all but a huge waterfall. It was more than a little bit intimidating with slippery rocks and water that pounds your legs and sprays your face. When you get about 15 feet from the bottom you just let go and fall into the water. Little did we know that this huge falls (literally the size of ones that tourists swarmed to in Laos - not too shabby) was just practice for the next fall. While not comparable in size, the finesse needed in this absail made it a perfect last of the day (although the big one was more fun). We stood on top, not able to see the cliff or the people at the bottom. The directions that we received were something to the effect of, go down a bit, the wall will end, go through the air, then you will be in the falls, go a bit more but you won't be able to breath and at some point you have to let go and be pulled under the rapid for some amount of time before you will be spit out downriver - sweet! This was all in not quite accurate English so we just went and hoped we'd figure it out. It was awesome and scary (mostly because we had no clue what we were doing) but we all definitely felt like we had conquered something when we emerged at the bottom. One more cliff jump and 20 minutes of wading down the river in the pouring rain and we were at the end of an incredible day.
That evening the five of us met a few other travelers and took over a restaurant for dinner followed by a pool bar - I guess this was the great end to the incredible day.

Da Lat, in addition to being known for it's cooler weather, is famous for its Easy Riders. A decade or two ago, there was a group of ex-military guys and some younger men who liked to ride motorcycles and were looking for employment. They formed a tour company called the Easy Riders and take tourists around the countryside. I hired an Easy Rider original with shoulder length grey hair, a huge bike and tough guy exterior. He was an absolutely amazing guide and pointed out parts of the landscape that I would have missed, answered my questions about life in Da Lat and Vietnam and took me to some great sites. We saw a huge waterfall (yes, it was bigger than the ones the day before), silk worms and then the factory where the silk was processed, rode in a cable car across the valley and he even showed me a little hike to the top of a mountain with amazing views! We were going to visit a minority village but when we arrived at we were told that it wasn't a good time since the husband was drunk... oops. I ended my day with a strawberry shake and dinner with friends and am off to the beach for some more heat tomorrow.

Tourist Crossing Guards

2009-05-08T04:32:00.003-05:00

I left Cambodia a little nervous about my arrival in Vietnam. I had heard mixed reviews from other travelers about being swindled on every corner and the notorious unfriendly nature of the Vietnamese. I have found neither to be entirely true. I have had hotels try to overcharge me and a few unfriendly interactions but have also met a lot of great people; it has been a much more pleasant experience than expected. I began my Vietnamese adventure in Ho Chi Minh City, still referred to as Saigon by the locals. The bus stopped in the middle of town and the first task after sleepily disembarking was to cross the deathtrap that is a Saigon street. I found a local to cross next to and learned that the technique is to walk steadily across while paying no mind to the hundreds or motorbikes, cars and buses that are zipping straight towards you.
I met two girls from New Zealand after surviving the streetcrossing and joined them at their guesthouse. We turned off the main street and down a small alley followed by a turn into a smaller alley and then another turn - it was so narrow that I could reach out and touch both walls. We arrived at a house that rented out three rooms to travelers. Staying in a home was a fun experience besides their fondness for durian which was consumed inside the house - this is a fruit with the scent of rotten onion and feet that seemed to always waft into my fourth floor bedroom. After escaping the Durian, the Kiwis and I headed to the market to explore and find something a bit more appetizing to eat. On our way, we were dismayed to find the widest, rush hour crowded street we had ever seen. Luckily, the city of Saigon must know how daunting this intersection is for tourists and our expressions of dismay were spotted by a tourist crossing guard (who knew) who escorted us safely across! In the market we were pushed and pulled and yelled at to the extent that we were extremely grateful to find ourselves expelled back to the motorcycle laden streets.
We found a restaurant (down an alley of course) and I decided to be brave and order a combination plate. It ended up being a combination of foods that either tasted or looked unappetizing... mostly both. The highlight of gross/interesting food was two whole shrimp (shell guts and all) encased in a strange gelatin substance that could neither be chewed nor dissolved therefore forcing me to swallow each bite whole.
The next day I explored a few of the city's parks and museums. Two of the more interesting sights were the Reunification Palace which housed a war command center in its basement and the War Remnants Museum illustrating American war crimes through photography. It was really interesting to watch videos and read about the Vietnamese perspective of the 'American' War. The Mekong Delta was my next destination. I took a package tour, an experience which reminded me why I don't do packaged tours, but there are not a lot of options in Vietnam (and the tours are cheap). We boarded a bus and rode three hours to a boat. We island hopped from the rice paper factory to the fish market to the bee farm to the coconut candy/carving location and ended the day by riding a horse cart (while wearing traditional Vietnamese hats) and listening to local music. I enjoyed the day but am glad that I haven't spent most my days being ushered through sights and factories.
The following day I boarded another bus bound for the Cu Chi tunnels. This 200Km system of multi-level passageways was used by the guerrillas in attacking and escaping from the Americans and their allies. We were able to see some of the traps and the forest was laden with the hidden doors that the forces could use to appear in the middle of the path. I was very glad that I wasn't exploring 40 years ago. We went through a tunnel and it was one of those times (there are more in Asia than anywhere else I've been) that I was glad to be short. Everyone else had to crab walk or crawl and I could just walk bent over. The funny fact of the day was that they had to widen the tunnels for tourists because they kept getting stuck.
Next stop: the highland town of Dalat where there are rumored to be cooler temperatures! We'll see.

Hot Wats

2009-04-28T21:52:00.002-05:00

The long and steamy bus ride from Laos to Cambodia was a good introduction to the heat and sweat that comes along with everyday here... it is HOT! I spent a few days getting to know Phnom Penh which is a city that seems to combine my Asian city experiences: it has the winding back alleys and poverty of Kathmandu, the posh(er) riverside and city center - not to Bangkok scale but reminiscent, and the quiet suburbs similar to Vientiane. I spent a morning at Tuol Sleng, the high school turned prison/torture center of the Khmer Rougue. I saw the small cells where the prisoners were shackled and the mechanisms of torture. There was also a video and some displays discussing the history, chain of events, key players and survivor accounts; these provided a great background and a stepping stone for understanding a small part of what Cambodia has gone through in the past four decades. I got chatting with two girls from Boston and we shared a tuk tuk to the Killing Fields a few kilometers out of town. After a tough day, we splurged on pizza (western style with cheese... amazing) on the riverside and then fruit shakes on the lakeside - a nice water-side evening.This past weekend I took a bus out to Siem Reap - a sleepy, riverside town. On the bus, I met two Swedish girls and we shared a tuk tuk to a guesthouse and then another to the temples the following day. They were very nice besides constantly speaking Swedish when they were both fluent in English.
Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples were incredible! We stumbled through the gates and the towering entryway in the predawn darkeness while thinking of all the people who had walked in and out of the temple in the past centuries - very spooky and atmospheric. The sun rose over the temples not as magnificently as we had hoped but it was beautiful to see them gradually light up. We escaped the early morning tours and went to the smaller (this is relative, it was huge) temple complex of Ta Prohm. The temples here were being left to nature which had let to some structure collapse and several huge trees growing over and around walls. This was by far my favorite temple - I'm not sure if it was the morning light, lack of tourists, or drama of ancient architecture and nature but it was fantastic.
The next temple will be remembered for it's amazingly steep steps. They were probably three or four inches deep and eighteen inches high. This was not too bad going up, although we were all holding onto the steps in front of us. Going down, if you were six inches back from the first step, you couldn't even see the stairs, it looked like a cliff. I am not afraid of heights and I had a hard time of it so I comend the girl I was with for doing it despite her fear (although it took her a half hour to get down).
The complex of Wat Thom, the second most touristed, was next on our list. We walked around the Elephant Terraces and a few temples before arriving at the crowning jewel of the complex - Bayon. The temple itself wasn't huge but the intracitely carved towers of faces surrounding the top of the temple were amazing. There were probably 100 large faces with eyes everywhere you turned (somebody's watching you...).
We saved our Angkor Wat visit for the heat of the day when all the tourists would be back in town. The complex was incredible but unfortunately the towers were under construction so we weren't able to explore the upper levels. The most memorable part of Angkor Wat wasn't actually the architecture (although it was pretty spectacular) but the intracitely carved stone murals covering the lenght of the four perimeter walls. There were scenes of heaven and hell, war, and gods and godesses. To think that this ancient empire not only transproted the stone, cut it into pieces, and assembled the temple without modern tools but also took the time to produce artwork on such a mass scale is mindblowing. I would definitely love to find time to spend a few more days exploring the periphery temples because I am sure that there are some amazing and frequently overlooked complexes that would be worth a visit (if only it weren't so hot). The three of us returned to town for Cambodian food and ice cream - a happy end to an absolutely amazing day.

Tastes like bubble gum

2009-04-17T07:10:00.003-05:00

My travels in Southern Laos were indeed more successful in terms of being able to get out and see things than my time in the capital. I took an overnight bus with beds down to Pakse. This sounds like a really nice way to travel but as we found our beds, the only other westerner on the bus and I realized that these twin size mattresses were for two people, not one. We asked to be put together but there were no changes allowed so we spent the evening sleeping with strangers. This is not a recommended bus experience but we arrived in one piece at our destination and I suppose that's all you need.
In Pakse, four of us met up over breakfast and decided to rent motorbikes for the day and drive around the countryside to some nearby waterfalls. Two of the other travelers had experience with motorbikes so they drove the other two of us around. The scenery was spectacular and the waterfalls ranged from narrow falls with amazing height to wider and wilder falls. We stopped for mangoes at a fruitstand and escaped an afternoon shower by dining at a local roadside restaurant. I felt that I really got a taste of Southern Laos which is just what I was looking for.
My next stop was the 4,000 Island area in the Mekong. I took a ferry across the river to the island of Don Det - a mecca of relaxation with hammocks abounding, 3 hours of electricity a day and no cars or roads. There were, however, paths for biking and six of us headed out to explore another waterfall. The falls were great but seem like they would be at their grandest during the wet season. We found a swimming hole on the side of the river and took a dip before riding back to town. The afternoon was spent tubing down the river; the second time in Laos I was able to spend an afternoon on the river, - I think I need to find an appropriate tubing locale at home. The island is so relaxed that I managed to miss my boat since all the signs say 11am when it really leaves at 8am, oops. An extra day in a hammock by the river wasn't such a hardship.
Also, I just wanted to report, I finally tried the green fanta that I've been seeing everywhere and it tastes like bubble gum! Yuck!!! If you see green fanta, stay away.

Luck of the Lao

2009-04-10T02:13:00.004-05:00

Well, my travel luck seemed to run out about halfway through Laos. It was all going fine - the people are friendly, the landscape is stunning, the food is good (generally), and the travel buddies are plentiful. I had a wonderful few days in Luang Prabang and sadly said goodbye to my Gibbon/slowboat crew as I headed up to the small town of Nong Khiaw. I met Kim and Johanna on my way and upon arrival we set off through town to explore the nearby caves. The village and surrounding area was breathtaking - set on a river and surrounded by dramatic limestone cliffs and deep green jungle - absolutely spectacular. The people in the small town were extremely friendly, showing off their baby ducklings and chicks and giving us smiles as we passed. We stopped to try to figure out what was drying on racks by the path when the woman came out to show us. Apparently it was Mekong seaweed, a regional specialty; they make it into a paste, add tomatoes and garlic, and spread it thinly to dry in the sun. We wanted to try just one piece but the lady brought out three bags (each containing about a dozen of these large squares), thinking we each wanted our own. After lots of gesturing and laughing, we were on our way with our single piece.
We arrived at the cave in the side of a cliff surrounded by a small stream with rice paddies and a peaceful grove of trees. We dined on seaweed (not particularly good - although we found out later that it is supposed to be sauteed which greatly enhances its edibility) and checked out the cave which served as home/protection to the local people during the Indochina war. We found a fruit shake stand on our way back and spent the afternoon relaxing by the river.
After the downpour the next morning (it is supposed to be dry season but it keeps raining!) we boarded a small boat and traveled upstream to the small outpost of Mung Ngoi Nuea. This town had similar idyllic scenery to Nong Khiaw and we took it all in from tubes on the river (there's really no better way to spend an afternoon).
Following a restless night's sleep (the locals were having quite a party with drumming and singing), Kim and I struck out to find the town of Huay Bo (or Hoy Bob or Ho Ba... I don't think they've quite standardized the English translation). I was feeling more than a bit under the weather and was miserable on the trek - although this gave us lots of opportunities to walk slow or sit down and admire the scenery. We nearly got lost in a buffalo pasture (it was huge with many many paths) and had to follow the local kids through rivers (who knew that's where the path went) before stumbling upon the lovely village. I was a definitely party pooper and went straight to bed. I had a short-lived second wind and walked to a local viewpoint, learned a game from the kids, chatted with the 'mama' of my guesthouse/homestay who was so incredibly kind and friendly, held and dressed her grandbaby, and wandered around the town. One amusing moment was when all the kids suddenly went running in one direction. I followed them and saw them clustered around a TV outside a home. There was a man tinkering with a generator and another had to hold the large satellite dish and make continuous adjustments during the hour of cartoons - priceless.
My evil tummy bug lasted throughout the night, throughout the trek in the POURING rain the next day, throughout the boat ride back to Nong Khiaw and bus ride back to Luang Prabang. Throughout my harrowing minivan ride around clothespin turns bringing me to Vang Vieng in 4.5 hours (it usually takes 7-8), and throughout 4 days in Vang Vieng.
My tummy luck got better as I arrived in Vientiane but my tourist luck was down for the count. I have checked everywhere and not a single tour, not a hike, not a kayak trip, not a caving adventure, is running in the entire province for the next week. There are supposed to be beautiful waterfalls and caves that are near impossible to reach via public transportation and all the tourists seem to have vacated the capital city for Luang Prabang which is hosting a huge party next week.
So in conclusion, I have seen the lovely but not too exciting Vientiane and am heading on the night bus to Paske; another home to beautiful natural wonders, and hopefully, if I'm lucky, to a few tourists who want to see them.

Treetop Swinging and River Floating

2009-03-30T03:14:00.003-05:00

I began my time in Laos by venturing into the Bokeo Nature Preserve to hang with the monkeys - an adventure called the Gibbon Experience. A dozen of us loaded into two pick-up trucks and embarked on a journey of several hours across streams and up, down and around on a barely passable dirt road. We disembarked at a small village with adorable kids playing in the stream and beautiful thatched houses surrounding us. A very sweaty, two hour, trek uphill in the steamy mid-day jungle followed. We arrived at the 'kitchen' where we were fitted for harnesses which we sported for the last 30 minutes of the hike. Reaching a zip line that we had to take to our treehouse (an amazing three story affair so high that you couldn't see the ground - great besides the GIANT beehive on one of the branches and the nearby bathroom - a hole in the treehouse floor - the proximity has resulted in some stung asses). While the rest of the crew relaxed and nursed their sore legs, Kathleen and I spent the afternoon hiking and zipping through the jungle with permanent smiles plastered on our faces and the urge to giggle every time we reached another zip - such fun!
We dined and played cards in the dark and turned in for the night under our shared bug nets. About the time we had all finished chatting and were trying to get some shut-eye, a storm brewed up in the distance and made its way to our cozy tree. We spent an hour watching the lightning and enjoying the atmosphere of the thunder and wind surrounding us (the treehouse has no walls so we had a close-up view from our beds). It finally passed and we had a good night's sleep until our wake-up call at 5:30.
We headed out early in the morning, rubbing the sleep from our eyes as we zipped across the jungle. As we walked, we heard the singing of the Gibbons which only occurs for an hour early in the morning. Unfortunately, we weren't able to see them but the noise was amazing. The morning was spent trekking to far-off treehouses and ziplines and the afternoon was free for exploration. As I was zipping away from the treehouse on my way to do one more loop before sunset, I was called back because we were being evacuated. There was a storm forecasted and we weren't supposed to stay in the treehouse during storms (news to us). Four hours later we were allowed to hike back 'home' and even got to do a zipline in the dark (usually not permitted) which was so cool.
The following morning, four of us woke up early to try to see the Gibbons once again. We bushwhacked through the jungle and found a vantage point under the tree where they were swinging. We were able to watch them for 20 minutes and listen to them singing! We ziplined for the morning and sadly returned to the treehouse for our trek back to the road. We had Gibbon 'reunion' drinks that evening and then half of us left for the slow boat the next morning.
The slow boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang is a two day journey on the Mekong. We were lucky enough to get one of the few seats that had been pulled out of vans instead of the hard wooden ones (woohoo). There was lots of reading and card playing but we discovered that it is pretty hard to stay entertained for two days on a crowded boat. There were nice views but I am glad to be in Luang Prabang; a lovely town and UNESCO heritage sight.

Golden Triangle

2009-03-21T03:05:00.004-05:00

I had quite a transportation adventure getting to and from a small mountain town called Mae Salong. My plan was to take the five hour boat ride and then a short sawngthaew (literally means two benches, these are attached to the bed of a pickup truck) ride to town. The day of my departure, a thunder storm was forcasted. I didn't want to take my chances as a massive palm branch was felled by the wind in the garden I was sitting in the day before. My Lonely Planet claimed that an alternative was to simply hop on the local bus, get off at a crossroads and board a sawngthaew to Mae Salong. I got off at the intersection and quickly found the line of 5 sawngthaews waiting for passengers to take to Mae Salong. One of the drivers spoke a little English and explained that we had to wait for other riders or I could pay 400 Baht for a private ride. I waited, imagining that people would emerge, and surely by the time the next bus passed there would be enough passengers to warrant the trip. Even one or two other passengers and we could have split the 400 fee (the price is usually something that can be bargained but the driver made it clear that he wouldn't go any lower when I arrived, and 'saving face' is a huge part of the culture here - ie, even if he wanted to drive me for less after we had waited for hours, he couldn't because he had already told me the price was final). I enjoyed my time watching the small neighborhood with an auto body shop, assortment of restaurants, small clothing store under renovation, and toddler in the house behind who wanted to play. I finally got tired of waiting and crossed the street to wait for the next bus to Mae Sai (where the original bus was going and a town that I wanted to visit anyway). Ten minutes later, another sawngthaew driver (who looked a lot saner than the one I had been dealing with), came over and offered to take me for 200 Baht. There was a small yelling match between the drivers (I guess undercutting the original price is not okay) and we were on our way.
After an hour of winding roads and beautiful views we pulled up at a guesthouse that was recommended, and better yet, under $2, the best deal of my trip so far.
Mae Salong is a small, one-road town surrounded by hilltribe villages. I woke up early to head to the morning market (5AM-7AM) where everyone gathers to buy, barter and eat. Then it was off to horse trekking! I was joined by a lovely Taiwanese couple and their young son and led by our "English speaking guide" who didn't know a word of English. The horses were small which turned out to be a good thing because I coud get my foot in the stirrup without help (yes, I know I'm a shrimp). We spent a lovely four hours riding through the peaceful hilltribe villages and scenery at the mercy of our horses (mine kept trying to cut in line but would bite any horse that would try to pass it... this led to occasional cantering to see which horse would be in front).
The next day, I had my hotel arrange a sawngthaew (instead of sitting for three hours on the side of the road), which still involved some sitting and waiting but I arrived at my destination and wasn't overcharged, woohoo. A busride later and I was in Mae Sai, the northernmost town in Thailand. I was expecting a small town but was surprised to find a sprawling small city that had built up around trade with Burma. Thai vendors head across the border to the market on the other side where they buy goods in bulk to sell to other Thai vendors who come to Mae Sai to stock up. The entire town turns into a marketplace (literally, roads and alleyways and anywhere in between... and it's not a small town) from 9-6 and you can get anything from cowboy hats (quite the craze in Thailand) to dried fruit to electronics.
The river that serves as the country's border is much smaller than I expected - there were kids swimming in it and most of them could touch the bottom in the middle. I waved across to Burma and decided I wanted to go and check it out. The next day I headed across the bridge and through the very low key immigration offices. In the Burmese (or Myanmar as the government calls it - there are politics behind each name which I won't get into here) office they asked me the purpose of my visit and before I had time to answer asked if I was going shopping. I decided saying yes was probably a better bet than explaining that I wanted to witness the military regime first hand.
I was not blown away by Talichek, it was merely another market/border town. It was a bit poorer than its Thai counterpart and they drove on the right side of the road, but other than that it was 'same same' as they say in Thailand. I would have loved to have gone to a smaller town and really experienced Burma for longer but visas and time constraints limited my stay.
I made my way down to Chiang Klong (the border crossing with Laos) via Chiang Saen, a wonderful sleepy town with a bustling market along the river - it seemed like a really nice place to live. The town was dotted with the ruins of temples from the town's heyday from 1200 - 1500. Chiang Klong is also on the Mekong but a bit more touristy than Chiang Saen. I stayed in an absolutely wonderful 4-story guesthouse. Each floor was skirted by amazing verandas, shaded by palm trees and overlooking the river. It was strangely empty for having so many rooms and being in such a prime location and it's low pricetag (a whopping $6 a night). I am thinking maybe there is a haunted house problem - it looked ripe for that kind of reputation. I sat and drank a neon green drink with globules (the specialty of the stand down the street) and read my book on the porch - a wonderful break from a few days of constant traveling.
I arrived in Laos today and am getting ready for a three day trip into the jungle where I get to play on zip lines and sleep in tree houses!

The Islands to the Caves

2009-03-16T07:41:00.004-05:00

After an amazing snorkeling experience in Ko Phi Phi, I departed the Andaman coast for the Gulf of Thailand. A night stopover in Phuket was followed by an amazing bus trip through dramatic limestone krast formations covered in lush green jungle. I arrived on the West Coast and took the cramped overnight boat that provided about 18 inches of personal space on a thin mat crammed among 63 other thin mats. The boat was past capacity as many local families had children that somehow weren't counted in the space calculations. Needless to say, I was relieved to be able to walk around and stretch when we arrived at Ko Tao.
I found a small guesthouse on a cove on the quiet side of the island and enjoyed a day of relaxation and exploring the coast. I met three Americans - some of the first in my travels - and we all went to a bar where there were two birthday celebrations and a going away party. Being a diving island, instead of regular drinking, the three honored guests had to consume their beer through a snorkel while donning a mask - quite entertaining although I am glad that flippers were not required because I don't think they would have made it too long without eating some sand.
The next day I departed early on a snorkeling/sight seeing tour around the island. Our first stop was shark bay where I was the only one on the boat who didn't manage to see one of the sharks that were "everywhere, you can't miss them," - I don't know if that makes me unlucky or lucky. The scenery was beautiful although not quite as diverse as around Ko Phi Phi (wow, I sound like a snorkel snob). I spent the evening with two British girls I met on the boat. We dined at a restaurant on stilts over the water while watching a lightning storm in the distance - quite a show.
I departed the next day for the first of my many legged journey to Chiang Mai. The Boat from Ko Tao took me to a bus which shuttled me to the train. Only third class seats were available for the overnight journey so I found myself on a bench in a crowded car where I was lucky enough to have a window seat. Many hours later I arrived in Bangkok with 16 hours before the overnight train to Chiang Mai. I had an early morning stroll, grabbed breakfast at a street stall and met up with Maggie who had just interviewed for (and been offered) a competitive teaching position. We had an afternoon of celebration - taking the local riverboat to the city center where we strolled around the stores and caught a movie. A local dinner and celebratory beverage later and I boarded the train to Chiang Mai.
I stayed in a small neighborhood guesthouse in the old city of Chiang Mai. I spent a day exploring the many temples within the walls and was surprised at how small, quiet and tree-lined the city was - this is until I went to the newer section to visit the night-market where there were swarms of tourists and activity (I definitely prefer the quaint neighborhoods to the bars, tourist markets and hookers).
The next day I headed to Pai which is touted as a cool, laid-back hippie town to relax in. It is a nice town but I didn't find much to it besides traveler restaurants/bars/shops and a lazy river.
I left for the Cave Lodge where I hoped to be able to see some of the non-touristy area and explore the nearby caves. The local bus dropped me off at the small roadside town of Soppong where I caught a motorbike down the dirt road to the Cave Lodge. The Lodge is a picturesque cluster of bungalows perched on a hill overlooking a river. It was built before there was a road in the area by an Australian who had moved to Northern Thailand in the early 1970s. He has written a book about his experiences and adventures in the area - his tales are captivating. Just a few of them include being the first white man many local people ever saw or knew of (they thought he was an alien), navigating the complicated local and border politics of the area, discovering dozens of never-explored caves (the locals don't enter them for fear of evil spirits), and dealing with drugs, murders, cave deaths and fires since the lodge opening. He could have his own TV series - a truly amazing story.
The first afternoon a few of us trekked to the nearby Lod Cave. We hired a guide and lantern at the entrance and she led us to the first two offshoot caverns and through complicated twists and turns that made me glad that I hadn't ventured in alone. The next day six of us decided to head to more remote caves that had been discovered by the lodge owner. We donned our helmets and headlamps and a local guide took us to two caves that we would never have been able to find ourselves (they looked like small holes in the side of a hill). We spent the day jumping over crevices, climbing over rocks, crawling under low ceilings - basically getting dirty and having fun while seeing amazing formations from delicate lacy designs to sparkling waterfalls of rock. We also came across some fun/scary cave creatures like centipedes, thousands of bats, huge spiders and a massive snake that blocked our way in the third cave of the day. Luckily the third cave had other things to see and we marveled at the dusk sky darkened by Swifts entering the cave and bats leaving. The wide opening was covered in guano and bird shit (I gained a new appreciation for the videographers of the cave episode of Planet Earth who climbed a mountain of guano) and we were careful not to slip.
My caving buddies left the next day and unfortunately trips don't run with one person (damn off season) so I headed back to Pai and am now en route to Chiang Rai - the jumping off point for the Golden Triangle.

Thailand (is HOT)

2009-03-05T00:50:00.005-06:00

I had a crazy day of flight changing and delays (with some time to watch the Indian highlights of the academy awards with a friend of the Dali Lama in the Kathmandu airport - random). I got to know Lisa, a yoga instructor from Cali who had one night in Bangkok before flying out. She had been there a few times before so she recommended a guesthouse and showed me her favorite sites. We hit some Bangkok basics in a six hour whirlwind including foot massages and lots of tasty food (green curry, pad thai, green papaya salad). The next day while I was waiting for the ferry (Bangkok has awesome transportation - ferry, skytrain, metro.... who knew), I met Maggie and Nick who were heading in the other direction to visit expat prisoners. I hopped on their ferry and we spent the morning navigating the complex prisoner visitation system with the help of the British Women's group whose members visit weekly. We were led through three tiers of security into a hallway of chair facing a window with an empty hallway in between and then the hallway with windows and bars where the prisoners sat. All the prisoners had sentences above 25 years with 40 being the average sentence. Many were in for drug related charges with a few in for anti-government or more violent crimes. They had to spend their first 6 months to a year in wrist and ankle shackles which were later removed. I spoke with a Burmese prisoner, Thang Oo, who was a sailor arrested for smuggling (we didn't get into the details). His parents had disowned him and his brother who was living in Bangkok had only come to visit once in six years. He spoke about philosophy, religion and how he wanted to learn in prison and not just waste his time. He did the cooking and laundry for three western prisoners to earn a little money and to help him learn English. The goods and services barter system inside was really interesting. After our chat I got him a notebook and pens which will hopefully be useful (but will probably be traded for something else, lol).
The visitors all went to lunch and I had some strange meat (from the taste/texture I would guess pig ears) and an amazing iced coffee to wash it down. I am not usually a coffee fan but I have found myself addicted to the super-strong, freshly brewed coffee that they mix in a small cup with a bit of sugar and sweetened condensed milk and then pour over a giant cup or bag of ice. I have found there is a definite art to drinking it slowly enough so you don't have a first strong/sweet swig and also aren't left with an entire bag of ice.
Maggie, Nick and I met up for dinner and I heard many stories of their epic, 18 month journey overland from Holland to Thailand (with 10 months in India on a motorbike). Nick is a journalist (who has written articles on lesbians in India, refugees in Thailand, and other probing and underpublished topics) and they had been in Bangkok for two months so knew all the best food stands and hidden places. We visited Mr. Yim (best green curry in Bangkok), ate grasshoppers and stopped for a pina colada and beer with ice (the way they serve it in Thailand, gets hot too quickly otherwise).
I spent a few more days in Bangkok getting visas, seeing temples, going to a movie (air conditioning, woohoo), exploring Chinatown with Maggie, eating delish dinners and drinking out of buckets. I sadly left my new friends to head South to some movie-worthy beaches and islands (literally). I stayed on Ko Lanta, Ko Phi Phi and am currently in Phuket. The scenery is just as you imagine with green cliffs rising steeply out of the turquoise water bordered by soft white sand. I went on a snorkeling trip to the cove where the movie 'The Beach' was filmed and a few other amazing sites with huge varieties of fish and coral to explore.

New Photos

2009-02-27T23:32:00.002-06:00

I've posted new photos. The links are below or you can go to the India album and select 'Photos by Amy.'
Varanasi to Pokhara
Chitwan to Bangkok

Kathmandu Valley

2009-02-26T23:34:00.003-06:00

Kathmandu was great but not being a city person, I was quickly ready to escape on a trek. I found two trekking buddies, Michelle and Sara, who wanted to do the Helambu Circuit. We planned a route but then decided on a shorter town to town trek so that Michelle could do another half day of work. The next day, Sara, a Danish guy, a Norwegian guy and I all headed to Boudhanath, a town with a fantastic Buddhist stupa as the centerpiece. We did brunch on a nearby rooftop and then walked an hour to a a compound of temples along a small river. We sat on top of a hill next to a park and watched the town below with the funeral pyre, school, and people busy with morning food preparation and prayer. There were also monkeys EVERYWHERE who were very entertaining but sometimes a bit intimidating as the ran/swung/jumped right by us.
We all met up for dinner and Michelle stopped by on the way to a movie to let us know that she wasn't going to come with us (now we didnt have time to do Helambu) so Sara and I left the next morning for a fantastic adventure on the rim of the Kathmandu valley. A crowded local bus left us off at the halfway point where we were to catch the next bus to Narkagot. As we tried to find the connecting bus, we found that everyone was telling us very different directions. We began to only follow a road if we were told twice that it led to our destination (sometimes that didn't even work). A few KM later, we had found the bus and were jamming ourselves into its packed interior. After just one breakdown and many purses bumping our heads, we arrived at Narkagot.
The sun was setting as we walked up the hill to find a guesthouse. We were quoted some outrageous prices, up to $50 a night, and couldn't even afford the creepy haunted house, complete with old stairs, creaking doors and small dark hallways. On the road, we ran into three travelers and they said that they liked their guesthouse and even had a big bed on one of the rooms that we could share - it was perfect! The travelers were Canadians who had been volunteering for a few months just outside of Kathmandu and were taking a weekend excursion. It was great to get their perspective on life in the valley and they were even heading in the same direction the next day. We woke up at five to walk over an hour up a hill to watch the sunrise. It was beautiful and we overheard that one of the small peaks in the distance was Everest. we trekked to Dhulikel through towns and terraces. All the women were wearing red and we passed many carrying giant loads of leaves/bark/bricks in a basket suspended from a rope across their forehead.
In Dhulikel we climbed another large hill to a view that had potential but most of the larger mountains were hidden by the haze. Sara and I made the smartest decision of the day and stayed at a guesthouse on the hill (and not in the town below). We spent the afternoon playing cards and reading at the amazing panorama lodge.
The sunrise the next morning was beautiful but missing the amazing mountains that we knew were in the distance (good thing we didn't walk an hour up 600+ stairs at 5AM). The hike was similar to the day before and just as beautiful. The midway point was lovely Nomoboudha, a small, roadless town where Buddha had offered himself to the lioness (surprisingly uncrowded for such a famous spot). We ended in a bustling little town that did not receive a lot of western traffic judging by their lack of English letters and anything that looked like a restaurant. We returned to Kathmandu, ate an amazing feast and sadly parted ways - it is rare to find somebody on the exact same page about travel so it was hard to see her go.
Next, off to Bangkok!

Trekking and Whatnot

2009-02-16T00:07:00.008-06:00

The redheads crowded in the taxi and headed up the winding, potholed, one-lane, two way road to Nayapul. An hour and a half of hairpin turns in the back of a mini-taxi and we had become very close, if not a little queasy from the adventure. We started out on the trail and in 10 minutes, Jo (the Brit) needed her second tea of the day (oh, those Brits). After the tea we were on our way following mules up a rocky path next to a river. At our lunch stop we were amused by shepherds losing control of their herds of sheep who decided to stray from the path and populate the adjacent farmland. There was wild waving, Nepalese shouting, rock throwing in a kind of display that left us amused but feeling very sorry for the frustrated shepherds. Joining us in our amusement were three Brits who had stopped to photograph the sheep debacle. Max, Emily, and Merlin joined us in the next few hours of huffing and puffing up the mountains. We climbed through many villages which was a great eye-opener for the challenges of living in a roadless town up the steep side of a mountain.
The six of us stayed in the same guesthouse for the evening and enjoyed amazing mountain views over the small town. After an interesting, eclectic dinner that would become the norm over the next few days (odd apple pie, strange spaghetti and moussaka) and a game of cards we attempted to get some shut-eye in our freezing bedrooms.
The next day was just uphill. Luckily it was short - but it was UP. We were entertained by local children along the way. One little boy was showing off by jumping off of a bench for over 15 minutes; I was tired just watching him. We arrived at the guesthouse by 3pm and settled in next to the wood stove dressed in our hats and coats. The view outside was amazing and from the window we could see at least half a dozen peaks in the Anapurna range.
We grudgingly woke up an hour and a half before sunrise the next morning to trek for a freezing hour up to Poon Hill. Our guide on the other hand, fueled by far too much local brew, failed to wake up or let us know that he would not be accompanying us on the dark ascent. Luckily, the other group's guide was great and led us to the top.
The sunrise was absolutely stunning. I took pictures but soon realized that the didn't even come close to doing it justice, and my hands were turning to icicles, so I just sat back and enjoyed it. We could see two or three of the world's ten tallest peaks and a whole lot of other really tall mountains. After soaking it in we headed down for a much needed breakfast before we set out for a very long day (it was supposed to take 2 days). It was by far my favorite day of the trek with mountains surrounding us for the first few hours before descending into beautiful forest with the path following a river. As we were walking through one of the nicest bits of forest (ie not steep downhill or uphill) we even saw a family of monkeys playing in the trees. We arrived in a large town just as the sun was setting and spent the evening nursing our tired legs (there was one knee and one ligament injury that made the steps quite a challenge for part of the group) and splurging on chocolate bars.
The next morning we woke up early to go to the cultural museum. This consisted of the smokey basement of a home that was filled with old farm and cooking tools - most of which are still being used today. After the 15 minute visit it began to pour with thunder throughout the valley. We returned to the guesthouse to wait out the first rain in over three months; quite an unusual drought for this time of year (good thing we weren't at Poon Hill because they got snow and no view).
The rain eventually stopped and we descended through amazing terraces and small villages. There were many people out tending to the rice and wheat and we the task of plowing done with oxen dragging a piece of wood pushed into the ground by the farmer balanced on top of it.
The windy bus ride back to town was uneventful and we were glad to rest our legs for a bit before walking to the other side of the lake for a local fish dinner. We took our adopted guide (ie the Brits' guide) out to dinner at a place he recommended with an amazing view of the lake and sizzling servings of freshly caught fish.
To continue our eating frenzy, we all met up the next morning for eggs and 'real' coffee (I even had halfway decent bacon - amazing). We decided that rest could be had later and set off for the cave and waterfall just outside of town (made famous by a tourist drowning in it - cheery). The cave was small and the waterfall not exactly thundering but it was a nice morning excursion.
We split up for our separate afternoon relaxations (Merlin's was spent bartering for 6 knockoff northface jackets and a backpack - doesn't sound relaxing to me). I found a very local place for a half serving of momos. There were just three booths, one of which was filled with 6 guys very enthralled in a game of cards. I watched a few hands and they let me join in for a couple which was a lot of fun - none of them spoke English so there was a lot of frantic yelling and laughing when I didn't abide by the rules.
Dinner was another group affair at a Japanese restaurant where I ate some great vegetable tempura and the others sampled the sushi (it looked relatively safe and cooked). This was followed by pancakes (crepes) and tea at another establishment with a special treat of nutella topping which had been purchased at an exorbitant rate at a nearby shop. We said our sad goodbyes and packed to catch our various early morning buses.
My bus ride to Chitwan National Park was very uneventful and I had a nice chat with the South African Canadian who was living in London. I was picked up by a jeep and taken to a virtually empty 'River Side Hotel.' It had beautiful views and unoccupied lounge chairs - I suppose this is low season in a bad economy.
My guide appeared and whisked me off to the Elephant breeding center (sounded a bit x-rated, I was worried). We took bikes on a dirt/large stones and potholes on every inch of it road. Our 5km ride led us to a river which we crossed on a 'traditional' bridge (elevated logs covered in plastic sandbags). I passed through a museum with information about elephants in Nepal and a horrifying step by step training process that young elephants are put through. We walked through the breeding center where female elephants were chained waiting for wild male elephants to arrive. There were some pretty cute babies roaming around and even one of the only pairs of twins in the world.
We returned for dinner and then departed the lodge for the traditional Tharu stick dance. I was happy to run into Emily, Max and Merlin and we were all entertained by the dancers and particularly the over-dramatic MC with a strange attempt at a British accent.
The next morning I went on an a short early morning dug-out canoe ride. The jungle was misty with visible clouds floating across the river - very atmospheric. I saw a crocodile, monkey, peacocks and many water birds before disembarking for the jungle walk. As soon as we got out of the boat, my guide (who seemed a bit bored) decided to regale me with the many ways that I could be killed by wild animals (rhinos and tigers and bears, oh my). He told me that it was safest in large groups, armed himself with his walking stick and then asked if I wanted to do the half hour or 2.5 hour walk... hmmmm. After half an hour of very uneventful walking (besides the three deer about 200m away that I was urged to take pictures of), we returned to the lodge for some elephant bathing.
After the breeding center, I was not feeling so keen about supporting any elephant related tourist activities but the afternoon elephant ride had been a motivating factor for visiting the park. I decided to try it out and climbed on top of an elephant. I was asked by my guide if I could swim, presumably because the elephant would walk into the river and spray me with water. I said yes and shortly after found myself dumped in the water with the elephant laying on its side. I'm not sure this was what the guide intended as he was yelling at the elephant. I climbed back on only to be thrown into the river from an even greater height. The guide did not seem happy with the elephant (it seemed perfectly nice to me - very playful) and I was afraid that its disobedience during my ride would lead to some of the various punishments I had read about. I made my way out of the river, cancelled my afternoon ride and spent a wonderful afternoon reading in a lounge chair with a river view. I met up with the Brits after dinner for some local rice wine (too intense for me) and popcorn - a fun night before parting ways.
I spent an entire day travelling to Kathmandu on a hot crowded bus and managed to sleep through most of the ride (thank you Dramamine). Kathmandu was not quite as hectic or dirty as I expected. The smog is intense but the streets seem cleaner and much less crowded than Delhi's. The city is a massive sprawl of 4-6 story buildings and narrow, winding streets. Today I strolled the local streets with butcher meat spread out on folding tables, spices and rices filling large stacks and a variety of things being cooked, assembled, sewn in dark doorways of homes. I passed by marching bands, rallies and army trucks (I was wondering about the scurry of folding up blankets of goods and running at the market until I looked behind me and saw an army vehicle) on my way to Durbar Square. The center of the city houses dozens of old building, temples, pagodas of varying size and upkeep. I had a delicious lassi in a rooftop restaurant before wandering back to read a book in the garden of my hotel (in the lovely, sunny, seventy degree afternoon).

India to Nepal: Overland Adventure

2009-02-06T23:44:00.005-06:00

I had a wonderful few days in Agra. I visited the Taj Mahal for sunrise which was spectacular and definitely one of the highlights in India. I actually returned in the afternoon to sit and read a book in a garden facing the tomb until sunset - quite a spectacular way to spend a day. I had been told by quite a few Indians and guidebooks that Agra was dirty and there were people hassling tourists on every street corner but in my experience it was calmer than Delhi and the open sewers didn't bother me like some of the filth in Delhi did. My second day in Agra, I ventured across the river to the Baby Taj. I departed with all my luggage and hired an auto rickshaw. The driver decided that he would rather not take me all the way to the monument and dropped me off a mile away on the other side of the river. I made the trek over the precarious pedestrian way which consisted of thin pieces of metal welded together with the occasional gap and somehow attached to the bridge. On the other side I found a slum of homes surrounding the road to the monument. I felt horrible and uncomfortable walking through the neighborhood with my pack- my travel gear encompassing more worth and goods than entire families owned. I made my way through the midday sun and brazen stares to the Baby Taj. I was not overly impressed with the monument, possibly because I had just seen the amazing Taj Mahal or due to the fact that I was carrying my bag around. I didn't stay long and found an auto rickshaw driver who would actually take me over the bridge and headed to Agra Fort. The fort was a huge sprawling expanse of walls and buildings - most not open to visitors. There was a view of the Taj from many of the buildings and the most fascinating where the emperor's harem of 500 resided.
After a delicious dinner (I splurged on ice cream to chase the spicy Indian fare), I headed to the train station by bicycle rickshaw. On my way to find my platform, I ran across a Russian couple and Argentinian siblings who were headed to the same train. The train was over an hour late (per usual) and it was nice to have people to chat with - the Argentinian had even worked in New Zealand for a year. My car was all tourists and I had a relatively comfortable night sleeping on my third berth (a little high up and shaky but a bed is a bed).
I arrived in Varanasi and went to the bus station where Mr. Kahn approached me to sell me a tour. I only had one day in Varanasi and was told that I'd be ripped off whatever I did as a boat tour and rickshaw are necessary to see the city, so I decided to be ripped off early so I'd have the entire day to explore. Varanasi is the Hindu version of Mecca (pilgrims come from all over the world) and the city centers around the Ganges river. Each street to the river ends in a Ghat which is a long staircase leading into the Ganges, typically with a temple at the top. Most Ghats are used for bathing or washing clothes but there is one that is the funeral Ghat where they burn bodies, or if it is a child or holy person, throw them into the river.
I took an amazing 2 hour boat ride down the river in my own private boat. I was able to have a little peak into the lives of residents of Varanasi in addition to their traditions around death. The city reminded me a little of an Indian version of Cinque Terre because of the color of the homes set up high along the river. The ability to walk from ghat to ghat is kind of like walking from town to town (there are many more differences than similarities but it was an interesting first impression).
From the river we journeyed to the Muslim center of town (it is half Hindu and half Muslim and self-segregated) where the silk Varanassi is famous for is dyed and woven. I was taken down a side street to a little home where I first thought they were cooking spaghetti. They had silk of an off-white shade wrapped around a long pole and they were dipping it in boiling water to extract any color from it. The silk was then measured by walking it all the way down the alley and finally taken into the house. Inside a small room lit by one light bulb were vats of dyes and a fire made hot by a manual fan turned every so often by the younger brother of the operation. The visit was even more fun because on the staircase around the corner and the doorway to the next house were women and little girls all peeking around the corners to watch me. I waved to them and they'd duck inside and then reappear a few moments later. Finally they became less timid and would giggle and wave back.
Mr. Kahn took me around the neighborhood and in every doorway families were participating in some part of the silk processing. We visited a doorway where men punched cards that dictated the patterns and a room where teenage boys used the cards to create intricate pieces - I watched a kimono in progress.
I was wondering how I had gotten so lucky to pick such a great and honest tour guide when he took me to a home of a neighbor of the silk dyers who he said wanted to meet me (I knew something was up but what could I do). We went up a narrow staircase and reached a small living room where one woman was sewing and a few others were sitting around, one with a small child. Mr. Kahn told me that the old woman was a widow and the four girls were her daughters who had no money to enable them to get married. I was served chai and chatted with the girls (14, 17 and 19) through Mr. Kahn for a while. I have to say, I really enjoyed the experience until the ask and subsequent handing over of money at the end.
The final destination on the trip was the silk cooperative market - someplace I imagined that I could walk around and admire the final products of the labors. We entered a small shop with no windows and I was asked to leave my pack and shoes in the entry-way and was then ushered into a back room where there was a long bench, of silk, and a tourist couple. I was asked to sit on the bench and my 'personal shopper' began to unravel bedspreads by the dozen, saris and bags galore despite my protests that I just wanted to browse the scarves. Soon I was sitting in a pile of silken goods with no escape in sight but to make a purchase (or be regaled with another layer of goods). I chose an item and made it out of there with my shoes, pack and self intact.
Mr. Kahn and I parted ways and I headed to the bus station for my overnight bus to Sunali (the border of India/Nepal). I found my bus - a rickety POS that makes Fung Wah look like first class- and got the last window seat. Instead of the typical four seats across, there were five and very little room for luggage - most of which ended up in the aisle and my bag was on my lap - making cramped into immovable. The window next to me wouldn't close all the way and it was in the high 30s/low 40s outside with so many fires burning in the small towns that smoke and chill filled the bus for the entire ride. Luckily, on the first part of the journey, I sat next to Amit, a man with a jewelry shop who spoke passable English and was very keen on practicing. He was very nice and came from a "very small" family with just him and one sister. After Amit departed, a larger man who most definitely didn't fit in the seat, and most definitely didn't care if he slept with his head on my shoulder and feet in my small amount of foot room, replaced him. The bus which had been huffing a puffing down the highway finally puffed to a stop on the side of the road. 45 minutes later we were fixed and on our way only to breakdown again. We exited the bus and stood on the freezing side of the road until another bus came to pick us up. The seats were already filled and the standing room was sparse but the man taking tickets (they call him el conductor) witnessed my attempts to navigate a space amongst the elbowing and pushy men and gave me a seat. It was 2:30AM and we were on our way again!
We reached Gohrapur, a town just 3 hours from the border and were directed to disembark and board another bus that didn't even have standing room left. One man spoke a bit of English and let me know what was going on. He said that another bus would arrive shortly and about 20 of us were stranded on a road in the middle of the night. A bus finally appeared 45 min later and we were transported through the crazy can't-see-the-nose-on-your-face fog to the border. There was some navigating of cycle rickshaws, a visa fee that had increased, 4km to an ATM and I finally made it! I decided to skip the local bus and take the tourist bus to Pokhara. I splurged on a ticket and boarded a fairly nice minibus with a tv playing Bollywood music videos at volumes that should not be allowed. I was the only tourist and soon discovered that the bus stopped at any person along the road to see if they needed a ride (and charged them a fraction of what I paid). I had a seat for my bag and the bus remained in tact for the entire journey so I counted it as a luxury ride.
I arrived in Pokhara in the dark only to discover that the town had no electricity (turns out this is a very common occurrence). I found a hotel with a generator that promised hot water - took a quick, icy (hot water, hah) shower and returned after dinner to a hotel with no lights. In the meantime, I found a nearby restaurant and joined three other backpackers for a drink and some momos - so nice after not running into many travellers in India. The next day I strolled the streets, ate by the lakeside with views of snow covered peaks and relaxed. The town is backpacker's paradise and is littered with hostels, internet cafes, restaurants, tour agencies and shops selling either trekking equipment or handmade clothing/jewelry. It is the slow season so there aren't as many travellers as expected and I often have restaurants to myself.
I have been trying to coordinate a trek and was lucky to run into Jo, a British girl, at a bookshop. Anapurna sanctuary has avalanche warnings and she was heading out on my second choice trek - as was a girl we met on the bus who is from Brookline, MA! The three of us (who all happen to be redheads - what are the chances) hired a guide and are off to the mountains tomorrow!

Delhi and Darden

2009-02-01T22:52:00.004-06:00

I got into Darden! Now back to the travels...
Delhi is quite an adventure and a crazy but wonderful place to start my Asia exploration. As expected, I stick out like a sore thumb and, in most places, I am the only tourist on the street (redheaded tourist at that) not to mention one of the only women in some neighborhoods. I tend to attract attention from people trying to sell me things (most often) or even half a dozen kids/teenagers at different sites who have asked to take a picture of me (at first I thought they wanted me to take a picture of them in front of the monument/tomb/mosque but after a moment of confusion, I realized that they want me in their picture like I am the tourist attraction).
My first morning I set off on an adventure on the Delhi metro which is very clean and has security guards checking bags and patting people down at the entrance. Connaught Circle is at the center of New Delhi and a bustling place to walk around with items for sale on the street and in a mix of shops from a sparkling Nike storefront to a crumbling doorway leading to a dim and narrow store. I found a little cafe for lunch and with no idea about what each dish contained, I pointed and hoped for the best. I was served my masala tea (delicious) and brought an assortment of small bowls; one had a green sauce, another what looked like a pepper chutney and then a bowl of small, whole, onions. I sat there hoping that this was some sort of accompaniment and sure enough, a few minutes later, my meal arrived. It came in what looked like a miniature silver bucket and was a spicy lentil dish that was delicious! I had also ordered garlic naan and I consumed it all in Indian food heaven. It was my second meal since arriving and I have been able to handle the heat with nary a tear or sweat drop (I don't know if that's because they look at me and make it tame or if it is my awesome spice tolerance - probably the former).
At the restaurant, I met Alex, an Aussie who joined me in travelling by auto rickshaw to Lodi Gardens (definitely the way to travel with the wind (exhaust) in your face and the ability to weave through traffic). The gardens provide a small refuge of green and house half a dozen tombs to explore. It also seems to be the playground of Delhi's elite as we saw many couples enjoying the sun and groups of young adults playing games and picnicing - this was the middle of a Friday.
Our next stop was Biria Mandir, a temple rising bright red and yellow above the gray rooftops. There were many people praying and behind the temple was a strange park of little fountains, animal statues and mazes that appeared to be the destination for schoolkids.
The next day, I left early to go to Old Delhi. I must have come out the wrong Metro exit and found myself in the middle of a courtyard with houses and a few local food vendors surrounding me but no street in sight. I made my way out early morning neighborhood bustle, down an alley onto the main road leading to the Red Fort. The sidewalks were lined with poor women and children in doorways and huddled around trash fires and the street was lined with men sitting side by side in a straight line. They were waiting for tea being distributed by two people walking down the line (and possibly food but I didn't see any). The line went on for over a km and ended at the gates of the fort.
The sun had recently risen and I was the only tourist (and woman) visiting the fort. While very large with many old buildings on the grounds - I wasn't overly impressed by the fort (and all the museums were closed so I had very little information).
Next stop was Jama Masjid, a spectacular mosque in the heart of the old city. It consists mostly of an outdoor courtyard with a long open hallway. There are two very large towers on the back corners of the courtyard that can be climbed (although women and children are not allowed to go 'unsupervised'). A guide led me up the dark and narrow tower stairs to the amazing view at the top. Before me was a panorama of the new, old, temples, mosques and crowds of the city - spectacular.
I departed the mosque and ventured down a winding street and narrow alley to Karim, a restaurant famous for its chefs who are decedents of Mughal dynasty cooks. They were only serving breakfast with two dishes to choose from (had no idea about either of them) so the waiter brought me out his favorite. Out from the famous kitchen came a bowl of gray/brown mush and meat chunks all soaking in a red oil (just what I was in the mood for at 1030 AM). Being a fan of food adventure, I dug in and discovered that the mush/sauce as a dip for bread wasn't half bad. I wasn't a huge fan of the oil and the meat was a fatty, briny chunk that I swallowed with difficulty. I'm glad that I tried it but I am thinking it won't be a repeat.
Next stop was the Lotus Temple which is very reminiscent of the Sydney Opera House. Later, short auto-rickshaw ride brought me to Humayan's tomb which was a huge structure surrounded by other tombs and a few acre's of greenery - great place to walk around.
I'm now in Agra (home of Taj Majal) after a very long day waiting for and riding on the Indian railways.

Arrival

2009-01-29T07:09:00.002-06:00

It's been a long 44 hours of travel but I have finally made it! A small recap: Drive to South Station (Boston), bus to Penn Station (NYC) train and tram to JFK, flight to Munich, 12 hour layover, flight to Delhi (via Mumbai because the airport was closed for the morning because of clouds!!), cab to Delhi (dropped off 2 miles from my hotel because the cabbie didn't know where it was... how hard is "right next to the train station") and hoofing it the rest of the way.

During my layover I was able to take a little tour of Munich. It was snowing so I took a bus around town. It is gorgeous;I didn't realize that 80% of the buildings had been destroyed in WWII and rebuilt in the traditional style. There are a lot of museums and parks - I would love to go back in the summer... or with a coat. From the city center I headed up to the quaint suburb of Freising and wandered around the main street for a bit.

Since my flight was 5 hours late, I haven't had time to see any sights and am looking forward to exploring tomorrow. The drive from the airport was quite an adventure and I think I have the honking system down... ready to hop in a car and navigate the left side of the road - jk. On my walk through town I had to avoid being run down by tuk tuks, bicycles, cows, motorbikes - this should be a much easier enterprise tomorrow without my pack.

Here we go again!

2009-01-14T13:42:00.003-06:00

I am resurrecting the travel blog. At the end of the month I am heading to India with plans to travel to Nepal and Southeast Asia. I will be updating this blog as I go. Enjoy!

Peru

2008-01-13T17:11:00.000-06:00

I arrived in Peru this morning after too many hours of flying and airport sleeping. It was quite a site with all the crowds around the airport but we managed to navigate our way to drop off our bags at our hostel. Jillian and I wandered around downtown a little before finding the cutest place for breakfast where we had eggs and coco tea which is supposed to help with the altitude sickness. We then found our way to the main square where people looked like they were getting ready for some big event and there was a podium set up. We hung around and were able to catch a two hour procession of bands and all of the military branches (there was even a mountain guard with backpacks and gaiters). There was then a speech that we didnt understand by a man who had been on our plane and generated crowds at the airport (we determined that it wasnt us that they were photographing and videoing, thank goodness because that would have been really weird. Songs were sung and the whole crowd stood up, it was all very patriotic.

Slovenia and Hungary

2007-07-10T00:33:00.000-05:00

In Ljubljana, I got to know a few of my 'cell' mates and we planned an excursion to the Scojan Caves early the next morning. John, Johnny and I set out, almost missing the train and then realizing we were on a train to Venice. The ticket seller had told us to get on this train without letting us know to change at the first stop. When the first stop came along we were all at the door, ready to go, but it wouldn't open! We thought for sure that we were going to end up in Italy but luckily there was another stop with a train to connect us to our destination. Once we got to town we still had a three mile hike to the cave which was absolutely spectacular. We wandered through giant rooms with stalactites and mites a couple million years old. Then, when we thought it couldn't get more amazing, the last room opened up into a space almost as big as a football stadium. There was rushing water below that we could hardly see because we were so far above it.
The following day, Ryan (another 'cell mate) and I headed North to a town called Bled. Bled is a picturesque mountain town on a lake with a castle on a cliff and an island with a Church in the middle. It was like something from a fairytale; everything except the downpour of rain. Since our first day in town was a bust (all activities were cancelled) we spent the second day hiking mountains. We went to the Julian Alps on what appeared to be a cloudy day but as we took the gondola up the mountain, the clouds remained in the valley and we were left with beautiful weather. We hiked up through the snow to one of the tallest peaks in the area which provided amazing views of the range. We proceeded back down the mountain, walked around the lake below and then went our separate ways. I hiked an hour and a half more up to a mountain hut where I stayed the night. I heard yodeling on the way up and didn't encounter anyone who spoke a word of English; it was exciting to be so removed.
The following day I summited the peak and descended into a valley with dozens of small shepard's huts. It was a long day of hiking and I got back just in time for dinner. Rafting and canyoning had been on my to do list but unfortunately due to all the rain, the canyons were full of water (but luckily the rafting was better than normal). The morning rafting trip was great (although a little tame compared to Maine rivers); it was nice to be on the water surrounded by mountains.
The next morning I caught the early train to Budapest which took all day (I didn't get into my hostel until 6). My roommate and I headed out to dinner and then on a night river cruise on the Danube. The boat ride was great; Budapest is beautiful by night. They have perfected their city lighting so all the landmark buildings and bridges are showcased while the ugly and grafittied are in shadows.
The following day I woke up early to get a parliament tour only to discover that they were not running due to some ceremony. I took a bus tour of town and got off to see the baths, the palace and the history museum. The museum was nearly empty and its bottom was an old castle which was great to explore; pretty quiet and creepy in the dungeon alone. From the tour I headed to the train station to take the overnight to Krakow which I am heading out to explore.

Bosnia-Hercegovina to Ljubjana

2007-07-02T07:02:00.000-05:00

The town of Split was a bit of a disappointment after the beauty of the Dalmatian coast. The ruins of Dionicians castle were huge and most of the town was built inside. I decided that one day was definitely enough but the next bus up to Slovenia did not leave until the following evening. Instead of spending more time in Split I headed to Bosnia.
The first town that I reached after the small, sketchy border crossing was Mostar. Mostar is the home of the iconic century old bridge that was bombed during the conflict. I went to visit the new replica and the museum documenting the bridge through time including its slow destruction. Besides the bridge and the small shops and restaurants beside it, there was not much to do in Mostar. There was a small little local place along the way where I ordered blindly from the menu and had a meal of small sausages, onions, and spongy bread (called Ćevapčići) (I ordered something that sounded completely different that night and got the same meal but with bigger sausages, I think it must be a favorite). I wandered around looking at the churches and Mosques and bullet-hole ridden front line that has yet to be prepared. Many buildings are still unsafe and have signs warning of landmines inside. I made my way back to the bus station (the top half which was bombed out and has yet to be repaired) and took the next bus to Sarajevo. The countryside was beautiful with crystal clear streams and large mountains on all sides; not what I was expecting at all. I arrived in Sarajevo which is huge in comparison to Mostar and nestled in a valley. I only had four hours to explore before my train which was far too little but otherwise I would have had to stay for four days. I took a tram downtown and found myself in the midst of a posh downtown street with outdoor cafes and designer stores. The main street was flanked by religious and historic buildings, many of which were under construction. As I wandered down the main street the stylish cement stores quickly changed to small, house-like buildings of dark wood with red roofs which held a plethora of tourist trinkets and cloths. It was a really happening place and I would love to go back with more time to explore and investigate the nightlife.
From Sarajevo, I took the night train to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, where I had a quick half an hour to wander the main city square which is a host to stately embassies and beautiful gardens. I left for Slovenia (my 3rd country in 24 hours) on the morning train had the day to explore Ljubljana. While it is a city that does not grab me, it has a beautiful castle on a hill and a fun marketplace in town. I am also staying at a prison which was converted by art students into a funky hostel; it still has bars on the windows!

Croatia

2007-06-30T09:54:00.000-05:00

I spent a wonderful night in Dubrovnik with a fresh seafood dinner on the water and then a Midieval festival with some newfound friends. The festival was fantastic with all of the performers dressed up. We saw an amazing fire poi performance followed by traditional dancing a sword fight and archery.
The next day, Ashley and I hopped a ferry to the island of Korcula which is very quaint; it has walls similar to Dubrovnik but much smaller with a wonderful sea breeze to cut the heat. We met another girl at the hostel and all went out to lunch at a wonderful pizzeria on the sea (pizza seems to be the most popular food in Croatia, very Italian influenced). The afternoon was spent exploring town and reading a book on the rocks next to the crystal clear, picturesque water (there is no sand in Croatia, all rocky coastline). That night we attended the weekly traditional folk sword-dance. It was in a very small outdoor theatre under the stars and the costumed performers acted out a play which mostly consisted of choreographed fight scenes between the two armies (which consisted of local men and teenagers, some who were very enthusiastic and others who took their acting roles less seriously; they were quite funny).
We made it an early night and caught the 6am ferry the next morning to Hvar; the largest island along the Dalmatian coastline. Hvar is very different from the other two towns with a large market square instead of walls surrounding the city in addition to a a very large yachting scene. We took a full day boat tour around the smaller area islands. We swam, snorkeled, and sunbathed all day and stopped at a little island for a picnic lunch. We returned to the island and celebrated Ashley's birthday with dinner and gelatto in the posh seaside strip of town.
This morning I saw the sights of Hvar which included a Franciscan Monestary that houses an exhibit of coins from 200 BC with Zeus' image, other assorted items collected from shipwrecks and contemporary Croatian paintings; quite a neat museum. After the museum I took a ferry to Split where the weather decided to turn into a thunder and lightning storm; very impressive. I took refuge in the internet cafe but it appears that the weather is clearing up so I am off to explore Split.

Italy to Croatia

2007-06-24T03:14:00.000-05:00

Wow, what a whirlwind two weeks it has been. We began with a wonderful two days in Ireland exploring castles, ruins, farmland and coastal cliffs (in addition to a few pubs, some Guinness and hurling). After our quick visit we flew into Venice where we navigated the dead end alleys and canals to arrive at our B&B. Venice is magical, it is so old and charming; we spent hours exploring the streets far away from the tourist hustle and bustle. We also saw the typical tourist attractions such as St. Marks cathedral, the beautiful palace in the square and Rialti bridge. We dined al fresco on the water and took the water bus to all of our destinations. I absolutely loved the winding streets and old world feel of Venice but we had to continue on our way to the Dolomites.

We spent our time in the Dolomites in a small town called Castlerotto (Kaselruth) depending on whether you speak German or Italian. The entire town was full of German speakers as the area we were in had been a part of Austria before WWI. It was unlike the rest of Italy with a culture of its own and houses like swiss chalets nestled into the mountains. We spent our day there hiking in one of the world's largest alpine meadows surrounded by the sharp rocky peaks. At night we sat at a terrace restaurant and dined on wiener schnitzel and strudel. The next day we headed back down south to Cinque Terre and after a few detours through the not so lovely town of La Spezia, we found our way to a beautiful B&B in the hillside overlooking the Mediterranean. We dined at the local establishment for dinner and had amazing gnocchi and pasta. The next day we were surprised by a train strike and unable to get to Cinque Terre so we ventured to the small coastal town of Porto Vierto. I waded in the Mediterranean and we ate gelatto on the sea shore. We returned to our B&B and ate an amazing home cooked meal on the balcony overlooking the mountains and sea (this woman sure could cook, yummm). The train strike ended the next day and we were able to take a half day to visit Cinque Terre before leaving for Tuscany. The five towns were beautiful with bright colors (chosen by the town's director of taste) and nestled into the seaside hills. Our stay was definitely too short but were were on our way to our Tuscan Villa. On the way, we stopped at a tiny town and had a wonderful lunch with fantastic local wine. We continued through the rolling hills to our accommodation on a hill overlooking the countryside. The next day I walked up to the walled city of Volterra on the top of a nearby hill and strolled around the old stone buildings and walls. It was quaint and quiet until you reached the main square where there was an ambulance/motorcycle convention (it was filled with the vehicles and crowds of EMTs and motorcyclists; very strange).
Back in the car, once again, we traveled south to the town of Orvieto in the Umbra region. It was very similar to Tuscany and the town was another walled city on a hill with a magnificent church. We explored the church which was built in the 1200s and featured construction of black and white marble in a stripped pattern; it was stunning. After our touring, we arrived at our B&B on a farm where the owner cooked us a 4 course meal accompanied by their own wine.
We sadly left the farm the next day and headed towards Rome. The city was stunning but it was hot! We sweated our way through tours of the Colosseum, a bus tour through town, the Basilica, St. Peter's Square and the Sistine Chapel. There are so many sights in Rome that I could definitely go back and spend more time there (although perhaps another time of year).
Rome is where Sue and I parted ways; she headed back to home via Ireland and I headed to Croatia. I spent last night outside on a Ferry with 3 other backpackers attempting to get some sleep on the lifejacket crates. We were quite a picture but we got a bit of shut-eye before arriving in Dubrovnik. Upon arrival we were accosted by a dozen residents renting out their rooms and found a great little room in the old city that two of us are sharing. The city is surrounded by a wall which appears as a large castle from the outside. It is a maze of streets and hills and so beautiful that it is hard to imagine that it was the scene of war 15 years ago. We wandered around town this morning, eating figs and pastries from the outdoor market. We also stopped at the War museum which is a multimedia display of pictures and video. There were fantastic before and after pictures which really illustrated how much the region was devastated. It is amazing how quickly Dubrovnik has rebuilt both its walls and tourist industry.
On a lighter note, I am off to have a drink at a cafe built into the wall overlooking the Adriatic. Please send me all of your news and updates, I hope that you are doing well.

AIDS Action Committee and off to Europe!

2007-06-14T22:44:00.000-05:00

You all may be surprised to hear... that I will be staying in one place for longer than 6 months! I was just offered a permanent position in the development department of AIDS Action Committee as the Coordinator of Corporations and Foundations. Despite the permanent position, I have no thoughts of staying in one place for too long. I am heading out tomorrow for six weeks in Europe to relax and explore before I begin my 'real' job. I would love advice from anyone who has traveled to Croatia, Slovenia, Hungary, Slovakia, Poland, Czech Republic or Germany on the sights that are not to be missed. I will be attempting to update my blog but the frequency of my stories will be dependent on the abundance of internet cafes and/or free time. I hope that you are all well and am looking forward to hearing from you soon.

I'm Back!

2007-03-11T09:03:00.000-05:00

I am back in the States (and have been for a while) and it has been a wonderful few months. I spent a great Christmas with my family, January was spent with friends in New York, Maine, and Canada and I am now living and working in the Boston area. Last month, I started a job at AIDS Action Committee in Boston and moved to an apartment in Somerville with some really fun roommates. Everything is going well and I am starting to plan my next step as my job is a contract position coordinating AIDS Walk Boston in June; it is fun to explore all of the possibilities. I hope you are all doing well and enjoying the arriving spring.